Lobelia Hat - Free Pattern

Idea and Inspiration

Lobelia Sackville-Baggins is not a hobbit to be messed with. Although Bilbo and Frodo aren’t on the best of terms with this no-nonsense relation, one thing they can’t deny about her is that she has class. Just like it’s namesake, this hat gets the job done and does it with style. The simple, stockinette folded brim gives way to an easy-to-memorize lace pattern that is beautiful without being too open. The invisible crown decreases make for a picture perfect top that only adds to the classiness. Wear this out, and you’ll be ready to handle anything.

This hat pattern started, as most of my patterns do, with inspiration that struck upon beholding a beautiful skein of yarn. This particular yarn came in a mystery grab-bag from Blacker Yarns last fall. As soon as I saw this lustrous yellow-green, I knew immediately that it wanted to be a hat--an elegant hat. And when I think elegance in knitting, I think first about two things: the simple beauty of stockinette (which will never cease to enchant me) and lace.

Once those stitches came to mind, the rest was fairly easy, and thus the Lobelia hat was born.

Pattern

Schematic

Sizes

Toddler, Child, Adult Small, Adult Medium, Adult Large

Measurements

Brim Circumference - 14.75, 16.25 (19.25, 20.75, 22.25)in / 37.5, 41.5 (49, 52.5, 56.5)cm

Height - 5, 6 (7, 8, 8.5)in / 12.5, 15 (17.5, 30, 21.25)cm (modifiable)

Gauge

27 sts x 39 rows = 4in/(10cm) in stockinette worked in the round after blocking

Yarn

Sample used Blacker Yarns Tamar 4-ply 100% Pure New Wool (380yds - 350m; 100g)

One skein of Tiddy Brook

To substitute, use

Fingering weight yarn 60 grams - 230yds (210m)

Note: this yardage is generous, and you will need less if you knit a size other than the largest.

Needles

US 1 (2.25mm) 16in circular needle and

US 1 (2.22mm) 32in circular needle or DPNs for crown decreases

Notions

stitch marker/s, tapestry needle, blocking supplies

Abbreviations

cdd - centered double decrease - slip the next two stitches together knitwise, knit the next stitch, pass the two slipped stitches over the stitch just knit.

CO - cast on

k - knit

s - slip (always purlwise with yarn in back)

sm - slip marker

st/sts - stitch/stitches

yo - yarn over

Instructions

Section 1: Folded Brim

CO 100, 110, 130, (140, 150) sts using long tail cast-on. Place marker to mark beginning of round and join to work in the round.

Round 1: knit all sts, sm.

Continue working round 1 (stockinette stitch) until piece measures 3, 4, 5 (5, 5.5)in/7.5, 10, 12.5 (12.5, 14)cm from cast-on edge, or twice the length of desired brim depth.

Next round (this round creates the fold in the brim): *pick up a stitch from cast-on edge roughly below the next stitch on left needle, knit this stitch together with next stitch on left needle, k1, repeat from * to end of round, sm.

Section 2: Body of Hat

Rounds 1-2: knit all sts, sm.

Round 3: *yo, k3, cdd, k3, yo, k1, repeat from * to end of round, sm.

Round 4: knit all sts, sm.

Repeat rounds 3-4 12, 13, 14 (15, 16) more times, for a total of 13, 14, 15 (16, 17) repeats of rounds 3-4.

Note: You can adjust the depth of the hat by working more or fewer repeats of rounds 3-4.

Repeat round 3 once more.

Section 3: Crown

Note: as the number of stitches decreases during the crown increase section, you will need to switch to either the magic loop method or DPNs, as your circular needles will eventually become too long to fit the stitches comfortably.

Decrease Round 1: *k3, cdd, k4, repeat from * to end of round, sm. (20, 22, 26 (28, 30) sts decreased; 80, 88, 104 (112, 120) sts remaining)

Round 2: *yo, k2, cdd, k2, yo, k1, repeat from * to end of round, sm.

Round 3: knit all sts, sm.

Round 4: *yo, k2, cdd, k2, yo, k1, repeat from * to end of round, sm.

Decrease Round 2: *k2, cdd, k3, repeat from * to end of round, sm. (20, 22, 26 (28, 30) sts decreased; 60, 66, 78 (84, 90) sts remaining)

Round 6: *yo, k1, cdd, k1, yo, k1, repeat from * to end of round, sm.

Round 7: knit all sts, sm.

Round 8: *yo, k1, cdd, k1, yo, k1, repeat from * to end of round, sm.

Decrease Round 3: *k1, cdd, k2, repeat from * to end of round, sm. (20, 22, 26 (28, 30) sts decreased; 40, 44, 52 (56, 60) sts remaining)

Round 9: *yo, cdd, yo, k1, repeat from * to end of round, sm.

Round 10: knit all sts, sm.

Decrease Round 4: *cdd, s1, repeat from * to end of round, remove marker. (20, 22, 26 (28, 30) sts decreased; 20, 22, 26 (28, 30) sts remaining)

Break yarn, leaving a tail approximately 12in(30cm) long.

Finishing

Thread tail end of yarn onto tapestry needle and draw through the remaining stitches, then pull to close hole at top of crown. Sew in what is left of tail to secure crown. I recommend sewing the yarn around through the final stitches a couple times to ensure that the opening at the top of the crown stays securely closed. Weave in ends and block.

Tips on Blocking

I like to block my hats on an inflated balloon to help them keep their shape well. I will first soak the hat for about 15 minutes in a lukewarm wool-wash bath. Then I will start inflating the balloon and place the hat on the balloon before it’s fully inflated, I will then finish inflating the balloon with the wet hat on it so I can adjust the balloon’s inflation level based on how big I want to block the hat. For this pattern, I suggest blocking it fairly stretched out to open up the lacy details of the yarn overs. I then set the balloon on a glass or bowl until the hat has finished drying

Connect

Need pattern support or have any questions? Feel free to email me at refractedlightknits@gmail.com

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Happy knitting,

Ethan Pyle

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